Saturday, December 18, 2010

Soap Disasters #5: Tattoo'd Soaps

Okay so this is still a mystery to me. I read somewhere online that folks used bread pans and cake pans to cast their soap into! As long as you spread a thin layer of Vaseline inside of it the soap shouldn't give you any problems. Sounding too good to be true, I decided to test it for myself.

So with that in mind I cast some left over soap into a skull cupcake pan I bought for Hallows Eve. After allowing the soap to cure for about 2 days, I popped them out and immediately noticed something wrong.

The saponification process stripped the finish of off my cake pan! Most curious. So, now that my chic skull pan is no longer usable AND this batch of soap has been tattoo'd with silver finish; I hang my head in curious defeat. It was too good to be true! Somebody is going to get a vicious email describing my emotional trauma for this on the internet.

So either the cake pan was really, really cheap and was going to do this with cake products anyways; or there is a chemical reaction that affects modern day cake pans I was unaware of. Needless to say I was most displeased by these results. Back to the drawing board. Gotta love disasters!

Soap Disasters #4: Rancid Crayons

Well one sunny Sunday afternoon a short time back, I decided to whip up a batch of decadent soaps. I was really excited for this, as I just purchased some fine smelling body oils from Dark Candles, and wanted to try them out. (Way cool site by the way, authentic scents!)

So after getting all setup and on my way to mixing the fats with the lye, I realize I'm totally out of liquid colorants. I got nothing. Blast. Also since it's Sunday everything for a 80 mile radius is closed. No joke. So after a minute of brainstorming I rush into my brothers room to dig up his crayons. He's on a Church Mission, he won't be needing them. I figured 'They're made of wax right? It should melt and leave behind all the nice colors of the crayons....' Now these crayons are not the Crayola kind, they're a much simpler knock off found in a dollar store. Also they're over 10 years old....been a while since we've had the urge to color.

Well, I made the soaps, they turned out several shades lighter than the crayons were, one was light purple and the other light red, almost pink. Which is okay given the circumstances I figured. After curing, the soaps where ready to be used! I took one with me to the sink to test, lathered generously, and the most foul scent hit my nose. It took me a minute to figure out what it was, but suddenly it made sense. The soap smelled just like rancid oils from fingers. I don't know if you know what I'm talking about, but it's a very distinct smell of rancid oil wrapped in leathery burnt bacon. No good can come of this. So I chucked the bars of soap and wrote this down as another disaster.

Since that time I've stayed away from crayons. Instead I buy fresh colorants made for soaps and candles at the local hobby shop.

With each disaster of soap making I've learned valuable things. Hopefully these posts will help you avoid these pitfalls!

Soap Disasters #3: Hamburger Helper Soaps

To this day this is still one of my favorite disasters. Upon discovering the Cold Process Method of making your own soap, I decided to go all out and first render tallow, making the bars from scratch and old school style. So after reading and re-reading many online tutorials and listening to the older generation stories of melting down fat, I gave it a whirl.

Now the fat I obtained was from the local grocery store's meat department. A good friend of mine happens to work there and he saved the cut up bits of Beef Fat they weren't using. After collecting about 5 pounds of it. I got all my materials together and spent the next 8 hours slowly melting the fat, rinsing it, melting it again. Following each step meticulously, I finally finished the separating the fats from the chunks of Crackles. Through this whole ordeal the whole house smelt like Hamburger Helper™, or plain browned hamburger hot off the stove. It smelt good at the time.

Allowing it to cool and harden in the fridge overnight, the fats separated from the water and glycerin inside. Simply peeling the round chunk of fat, I ended up with 3 pounds of pure white, clean beef tallow. So later in the day I assembled my soap making materials, intent on making a bar of straight beef tallow.

So I melted the fats, mixed the lye/water together, and then hand blended the two at the appropriate temperature. After two hours of stirring (this is why you invest in a hand blender!) it finally took to trace. At this point the whole house smelt like Hamburger Helper™ again, not from the previous nights rendering; but from re-melting the tallow. Too eager to see how my first batch turned out I ignored this small detail and finished with the soaps.

The next day I pop the batch of soap (only about a pound worth) out of it's mold and cut it up into bars. The scent was gone that I added (was a manly fragrance oil called Egyptian Musk,) and the coloring took an unexpected twist and went from a dark green to a light sea foam green. Allowing the bars to cure, I would eagerly wait the day I could actually use my first batch of soap, four weeks seems like a very long time while waiting. Oddly enough during this time it never occurred to me to begin work on a new batch of soap. LOL.

Finally it was here! I soaped up and scrubbed and scrubbed my hands. You'll never guess the scent that permeated the bars. . . . . .Hamburger Helper™! My dog loved me for the next few days after wards. Dramatic Sigh. My theory is that the rendered tallow was melted too long and actually "cooked" leaving nice bits of crackling fats. Also I've wondered the quality of fats I used, rumor has it the local grocery stores these days don't use top notch quality fed animals. I've since discovered that if you re-melt your fats with a cut up potato inside of it and bring it to a simmer for about an hour, the potato will absorb all the remaining scent leaving you with fresh, white, scent-free fat! Also I would highly recommend using tallow with lard and/or other vegetable fats to create a softer soap that lathers well.

So this elaborate disaster had many facets: Odd scent, Odd Color, and Performs Badly being just Beef Tallow. No wonder the older generations raise their eyebrows when they hear I'm making lye soap.

Soap Disasters #2: Fragrances and Essential Oils

I wish to elaborate on the many disasters that have occurred with scenting a bar of soap. First and foremost you really do have to obtain pure scented oils made just for cosmetic use. This is mostly because if you use an oil made for candles, potpourri, and sachets while bathing, the sensitive parts can erupt with rashes, hives, as well as your eyes burning without end, and you could end up feeling less than stellar the rest of the day. . .not so fun for you, most fun for your roommates that kept you up all night!

With that said, there are many kinds of Fragrance oils (synthetically made) and Essential oils (distilled from plant leaves, stems, roots, & bark). One epic failure was to one of my first hand milled batches of soap (Hand Milling Tutorial coming soon) I added a popular cologne spray at the final steps before scooping into molds. Instantly the cologne vaporized due to it's low volatile rate as well as being partly made out of alcohol (pure alcohol can turn to vapor without any heat anyways leaving behind the pure oil; however, if it's hot enough the oil goes with the alcohol). Needless to say the bar ended up looking good, however scentless.

You really have to learn the ropes with these oils, their pretty darn sensitive and moody. One misplaced judgment or misunderstood characteristic and you have a scentless bar! For example with essential oils, not only are they pricier than all the other options, but each can either speed up the saponification process or slow it down, as well as being ultra sensitive to hot soap. So you really need to do your homework before getting started or that bottle of Cinnamon/Clove Blend Essential Oil that cost about the same as a new DVD, has been vaporized and left your batch of soap hardened in the mixing bowl. Fantastic!

Now time and time again it's taken me to learn this next fact. Fragrance oils sold in hobby shops and craft stores that are specifically labeled: Soap Making Oil are NOT user friendly with the Cold Process of making soap. These soap oils are geared towards Melt & Pour soaping and can be used for hand milled soaps. So far they have never stuck to any batch of CP Soap I've ever made. You'd think after the 10th batch of failed soap I'd finally figure this one out.

Alas, I'm not that quick. So basically the point here is to do your homework before hand! Get everything set up and prepare for what could happen if you add the oils at the wrong time! Make sure you have the proper amounts of Essential Oils, and if using Fragrance oils make sure they are made especially for CP Soap, measured correctly. As I mentioned before, a scentless batch of soap is not lost! You can re-mill it and start fresh. Most soaps can be saved and not wasted. More about that in the Hand Milling Tutorial.

Soap Disasters #1: Soap Molds


In the history of making Naked Soap there have been some serious and funny soap disasters along the way. I've decided to post some of my favorites in the next few blogs. So let's begin with Soap Mold Disasters.

So, you've got the perfect recipe for soap figured out. You've got all your supplies ready and everything set up. Now what to pour the soap into. As far as molds go, there are hundreds of options, some very expensive and high quality, some very cheap and low quality, and some budget friendly lying around the house. Most of the time my soap goes into silicone cake molds. They're flexible and you can then cut the soap loaf into any desired shape.

However, a few months ago I was tempted by another option for soap molds: PVC Pipe. The online tutorials make it look so easy and simple. Just seal one end off with a Ziploc bag and some rubber bands, and pour the soap into it! Allow to cure, it slides out and voila! Round soaps that can be cut to any thickness. It looks so darn trendy and simple that I couldn't resist. Well, after many, many tries I've yet to master this stupid pipe.

The biggest flaw for me is the hot soap would melt the plastic Ziploc bag and suddenly my sweet pomegranate smelling soap is all over the counter top and kitchen floor. My neighbors got to listen to a whole string of cuss words that day. That's what I get for cheaper Ziploc bags. So to upgrade and improve I re-sealed the pipe with heavy duty thick plastic Ziploc, sealed it with rubber bands (many more this time), and then placed the pipe inside a box to catch any leakage. This time I ended up with the zip lock bag catching all the soap, but the rubber bands failed in their duty to seal and all the soap ended up in the bag. Soap in a bag. Fantastic.

Well, after loosing several batches of soap this way I finally got one to work: I wrapped thick saran wrap around the bottom of the pipe, sealed it with high quality Ziploc bags and LARGE heavy duty rubber bands wrapped around several times. This baby wasn't even letting air out. I pour the soap, and (dramatic fanfare music) it works! I let the pipe cure for several days, and remove all the wrap. That soap looked amazing.....inside the pipe. Alas by the time I got it out of the pipe I had piles of gooey mash that was once soap scraped out all over the counter top. The soap was like cement to the insides of that pipe! I ended up smashing the pipe with a large hammer and peeling pieces off of the soap. Blasted. Turns out soap does not do well with a non-flexible, non-lined mold. Since this time I've junked all my pipes. I don't know how people have figured it out in the past, but that's way too much effort on my part to make some trendy soap.